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The cycle of salt (salt caravans, Lake Assale, Feb 08)

Lake Assale hosts the Afars' richness - salt. For century, salt has been exported on caravans from here to all of Ethiopia and beyond. The procedure has little changed until today. On oour expedition, we had the opportunity to witnes the complete cycle.

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During the night, hundreds, sometimes thousands of camels have arrived and gathered in the valley next to Ahmed Ela, the cosmopolitan Afar village next to the lake. A century-old tradition will repeat itself. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
During the night, hundreds, sometimes thousands of camels have arrived and gathered in the valley ne...
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The number of caravans, the number of camels in each caravan, and the names of available salt cutters have all been recorded and matched to each other through a ticket system, supervised by the Shumbahari (the Chief of the Lake). Each caravan is thus assigned a group of 3 salt cutters, which ensures that the size of a single caravan is ideally 10-20 camels. If there are less camels than workers, or vice versa, some of the workers (or camel caravans) will have to wait another day, but earn priority on the next day. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
The number of caravans, the number of camels in each caravan, and the names of available salt cutter...
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One by one, in defined order, the caravans leave towards the salt cutting area, about two hours march while it's still cool. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
One by one, in defined order, the caravans leave towards the salt cutting area, about two hours marc...
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The march of the camels leads through one of the most hostile places on earth, the salt lake. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
The march of the camels leads through one of the most hostile places on earth, the salt lake. (Photo...
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Lake Assale - a large expanse of salt which has been deposited by countless invasions from sea water. In places, the salt is 5 kilometers thick. The Afar have been extracting salt here for centuries. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Lake Assale - a large expanse of salt which has been deposited by countless invasions from sea water...
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Salt crystals form in hollows where they are protected from wind and the rare rains. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Salt crystals form in hollows where they are protected from wind and the rare rains. (Photo: Tom Pf...
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Close-up of salt crystals. The brown color of the lake comes from small dust particles carried in by the often strong catabatic winds. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Close-up of salt crystals. The brown color of the lake comes from small dust particles carried in by...
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Focolo ("salt cutters") are providing the hard work, to break up the solid crust of the lake. Only about the upper 10 cm can be used. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Focolo ("salt cutters") are providing the hard work, to break up the solid crust of the lake. Only a...
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Focolo at work. Each group of 3 focolo per caravan is paid 10 bir per camel by the Arho (the caravan owner). (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Focolo at work. Each group of 3 focolo per caravan is paid 10 bir per camel by the Arho (the caravan...
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After the work of axes, several focolo join their forces to break up meter-sized fragments of the crust. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
After the work of axes, several focolo join their forces to break up meter-sized fragments of the cr...
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The second step in production is shaping the blocks into rectangles that weigh exactly 7 kgs. This highly qualified job is done exclusively by Afar workers, who are called Hadelimera, the salt cutters. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
The second step in production is shaping the blocks into rectangles that weigh exactly 7 kgs. This h...
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Cutting the salt blocks requires a good eye and feeling for the material. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Cutting the salt blocks requires a good eye and feeling for the material. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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In a sea of broken crust, these Afar can be proud of their well-cut blocks. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
In a sea of broken crust, these Afar can be proud of their well-cut blocks. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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While the salt cutters and salt shapers are at work, the camel owners and their animals rest. They wait until enough blocks are ready for packing. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
While the salt cutters and salt shapers are at work, the camel owners and their animals rest. They w...
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It's getting late morning and hot; the camel owners, the Arho, are impatient to start loading the camels. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
It's getting late morning and hot; the camel owners, the Arho, are impatient to start loading the ca...
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It's loading time. After having paid the 1.50 Bir to the cutters for each block, each camel can carry up to 20 blocks. The blocks are carefully tied together. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
It's loading time. After having paid the 1.50 Bir to the cutters for each block, each camel can carr...
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Loading the camels. It is important that the blocks are tied well and placed in the right position. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Loading the camels. It is important that the blocks are tied well and placed in the right position. ...
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Temperatures often exceed 40 deg Centigrade in the heat of noon, but as soon as loading is complete, the caravans leave on the long return to journey towards the distant highlands lies just ahead. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Temperatures often exceed 40 deg Centigrade in the heat of noon, but as soon as loading is complete,...
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Camel leader with a piece of salt in his hands. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Camel leader with a piece of salt in his hands. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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One by one, loaded caravans cross the salt lake back towards Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
One by one, loaded caravans cross the salt lake back towards Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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In the evening, the caravans are back in Ahmed Ela, but there's only a short rest to stock on food and water here. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
In the evening, the caravans are back in Ahmed Ela, but there's only a short rest to stock on food a...
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Since most caravans only need to go to Berahile, making the journey half as long, donkeys have started to replace camels. A donkey counts half a camel, but is much cheaper. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Since most caravans only need to go to Berahile, making the journey half as long, donkeys have start...
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Leaving caravan loaded with salt. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Leaving caravan loaded with salt. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Camels and a donkey. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Camels and a donkey. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Camels leaving Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Camels leaving Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Loaded camel. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Loaded camel. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Happy with the day's work, young arho leave towards Mekele, while other empty caravans are arriving in Ahmed Ela, to conclude and repeat the cycle, just as it has been for centuries. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Happy with the day's work, young arho leave towards Mekele, while other empty caravans are arriving ...
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Coming and going of caravans at Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Coming and going of caravans at Ahmed Ela. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Caravans arriving, others leaving. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Caravans arriving, others leaving. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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Sunset at Ahmed Ela. Mekele is far. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
Sunset at Ahmed Ela. Mekele is far. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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In endless succession, caravans loaded with precious salt leave on their ardous journey towards the distant highlands, barely visible in the evening dust. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
In endless succession, caravans loaded with precious salt leave on their ardous journey towards the ...
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The suff what it's all about. Pure salt. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
The suff what it's all about. Pure salt. (Photo: Tom Pfeiffer)
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