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The cycle of salt (salt caravans, Lake Assale, Feb 08)

Lake Assale hosts the Afars' richness - salt. For century, salt has been exported on caravans from here to all of Ethiopia and beyond. The procedure has little changed until today. On oour expedition, we had the opportunity to witnes the complete cycle.

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During the night, hundreds, sometimes thousands of camels have arrived and gathered in the valley next to Ahmed Ela, the cosmopolitan Afar village next to the lake. A century-old tradition will repeat itself.
During the night, hundreds, sometimes thousands of camels have arrived and gathered in the valley ne...
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The number of caravans, the number of camels in each caravan, and the names of available salt cutters have all been recorded and matched to each other through a ticket system, supervised by the Shumbahari (the Chief of the Lake). Each caravan is thus assigned a group of 3 salt cutters, which ensures that the size of a single caravan is ideally 10-20 camels. If there are less camels than workers, or vice versa, some of the workers (or camel caravans) will have to wait another day, but earn priority on the next day.
The number of caravans, the number of camels in each caravan, and the names of available salt cutter...
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One by one, in defined order, the caravans leave towards the salt cutting area, about two hours march while it's still cool.
One by one, in defined order, the caravans leave towards the salt cutting area, about two hours marc...
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The march of the camels leads through one of the most hostile places on earth, the salt lake.
The march of the camels leads through one of the most hostile places on earth, the salt lake.
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Lake Assale - a large expanse of salt which has been deposited by countless invasions from sea water. In places, the salt is 5 kilometers thick. The Afar have been extracting salt here for centuries.
Lake Assale - a large expanse of salt which has been deposited by countless invasions from sea water...
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Salt crystals form in hollows where they are protected from wind and the rare rains.
Salt crystals form in hollows where they are protected from wind and the rare rains.
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Close-up of salt crystals. The brown color of the lake comes from small dust particles carried in by the often strong catabatic winds.
Close-up of salt crystals. The brown color of the lake comes from small dust particles carried in by...
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Focolo ("salt cutters") are providing the hard work, to break up the solid crust of the lake. Only about the upper 10 cm can be used.
Focolo ("salt cutters") are providing the hard work, to break up the solid crust of the lake. Only a...
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Focolo at work. Each group of 3 focolo per caravan is paid 10 bir per camel by the Arho (the caravan owner).
Focolo at work. Each group of 3 focolo per caravan is paid 10 bir per camel by the Arho (the caravan...
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After the work of axes, several focolo join their forces to break up meter-sized fragments of the crust.
After the work of axes, several focolo join their forces to break up meter-sized fragments of the cr...
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The second step in production is shaping the blocks into rectangles that weigh exactly 7 kgs. This highly qualified job is done exclusively by Afar workers, who are called Hadelimera, the salt cutters.
The second step in production is shaping the blocks into rectangles that weigh exactly 7 kgs. This h...
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Cutting the salt blocks requires a good eye and feeling for the material.
Cutting the salt blocks requires a good eye and feeling for the material.
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In a sea of broken crust, these Afar can be proud of their well-cut blocks.
In a sea of broken crust, these Afar can be proud of their well-cut blocks.
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While the salt cutters and salt shapers are at work, the camel owners and their animals rest. They wait until enough blocks are ready for packing.
While the salt cutters and salt shapers are at work, the camel owners and their animals rest. They w...
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It's getting late morning and hot; the camel owners, the Arho, are impatient to start loading the camels.
It's getting late morning and hot; the camel owners, the Arho, are impatient to start loading the ca...
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It's loading time. After having paid the 1.50 Bir to the cutters for each block, each camel can carry up to 20 blocks. The blocks are carefully tied together.
It's loading time. After having paid the 1.50 Bir to the cutters for each block, each camel can carr...
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